Ilfracombe is the Brighton of Barnstaple and North Devon.
ILFRACOMBE, an ancient sea port and market town, and the most picturesque and fashionable bathing place on the north coast of Devon, is distant about 10 miles N. by W. of Barnstaple, 5 miles N.W. by N. of Exeter, and 200 miles W. by S. of London. It is built partly at the bottom and partly on the side and summit of a steep acclivity, and till about 30 years ago, it consisted chiefly of one long street, but since then it has risen to great celebrity as a watering place and tunnels have been cut through the rocky cliffs to the fine beach and coves of Crewkhorne, which affords better and more retired places for sea-bathing than Wildersmouth, the old bathing place.
The harbour consists of a natural basin, defended from the violence of the sea by a bold mass of rock, stretching nearly half way across the entrance; and an artificial pier, upwards of 850 feet long, which was built many years ago by the Bourchier family, and partly rebuilt and lengthened by Sir Bourchier Wrey, in 1760. This pier was enlarged and much improved in 1829 by Sir B.P. Wrey, Bart., the present owner and lord of the manor. On three sides, the rocks and hills rise boldly in a semicircular sweep, and their craggy steeps are in many places finely overspread with foliage. Hillsborough Rock, on the east side of the harbour, rises with a rugged outline to upwards of 500 feet above the level of the beach. Lantern Rock, on the western side, is of smaller dimensions, rising nearly to a point, and having on its conical summit a light house, which is 140 feet above low water mark, and was formerly a chapel. A little further to the west is Capstone Hill, which rises much higher; and beyond this are a series of precipitous rocky cliffs and tors, near the higher parts of the town and the beautiful terraces, which command extensive views over the town and the Bristol Channel to the Welsh Coast.
Robert holds ILFRACOMBE (ALFREINCOME) from Baldwin. Aelmer held it before 1066. It paid tax for 1 hide. Land for 9 ploughs. In lordship 2 ploughs; 1 virgate. 12 villagers and 12 smallholders with 9 ploughs and 3 virgates; 5 slaves Meadow, 5 acres; pasture, 100 acres. 1 cob; 5 cattle; 15 pigs; 133 sheep Value now and formerly £4.
The parish of Ilfracombe comprises 5583 acres of land, rising in bold hills from the coast, and including many scattered farm-houses, and the small hamlets, &c., of Damage, Campscott, Slade, Warcombe, and Lincombe. Its population amounted in 1801 to 1838; in 1811 to 1934; in 1821 to 2622; in 1831 to 3201; and in 1841 to 3620, but it has now more than 4000 souls. Sir B.P. Wrey, Bart., is lord of the manor of Ilfracombe, which was formerly part of the barony of Barnstaple, and was held successively by the Martin, Audley, and Bourchier families. The manors of Lincombe and Warcombe belong to C. Cutcliffe Drake, Esq.; and the Wren, Davy, Meek, and other families, have estates in the parish. Ilfracombe is within the jurisdiction of the port of Barnstaple, and was of such maritime consequence in l346, that it furnished six ships and 82 mariners for the siege of Calais. It is much resorted to as a harbour of refuge, and has a considerable coasting trade and herring fishery, employing about 70 vessels. Having been a garrison for Parliament, it was taken in September, 1644, for the king, by Sir Fras. Dodington, with 20 pieces of ordnance, as many barrels of powder, and 200 stand of arms. There are coaches, &c., daily to Barnstaple, Exeter, &c., and steam-packets ply twice a week to Swansea, Bristol, Cornwall, Bideford, &c. The town is governed by a portreeve, and is described in ancient records as a borough.
The market, which is now held on Saturday, is well supplied with all sorts of provisions, and was granted in 1278 to Henry Champernowne, to be held on Monday, together with a fair for three days. Here are now two cattle fairs on April 14th and the Saturday after Aug. 23rd. The town has now several good inns and numerous furnished houses and lodgings for all classes of visitors. The Baths form a handsome building in the Doric order, erected in 1836; and the Public Rooms form the centre of Coronation square. There are good libraries at three of the booksellers' shops, and the town affords many other accommodations for the amusement and recreation of the numerous visitors who throng to it in the summer season. The town has gas works and many good shops, and the walks and rides in the vicinity rank amongst the most picturesque and beautiful in Devon.
The CHURCH (Holy Trinity,) is a large antique structure, consisting of a chancel, nave, and side aisles, vith a low square tower, rising from the middle of the north aisle. It is supposed to have been erected in the 12th century, and has undergone many repairs and alterations. The interior is neatly fitted up, and has room for 1400 hearers. It has a good organ and contains several handsome monuments, one of which is a sarcophagus, erected by government, in memory of Capt. Richad. Bowen, who fell at the unfortunate attempt upon Teneriffe, under Admiral Nelson, in 1797. Another is in memory of the mother of John Prince, author of the Worthies of Devon. Ilfracombe is a prebend belonging to Salisbury Cathedral, and was held for some time by Camden, the learned antiquary and topographer. The prebendary (the Rev. W. Fisher) is appropriator of the rectory, and patron of vicarage, valued in 1831 at £150, and now in the incumbency of the Rev. J.M. Chanter, M.A., who has a good residence and 3A. of glebe. The prebendal glebe is 71 acres; and the tithes were commuted in 1842 for £819. The great tithes are leased to the Carew family, subject to a yearly stipend of £20 for the vicar. The erection of a Chapel of Ease is in contemplation, and is much wanted in this now populous parish. A "Free Church," dedicated to Christ, has lately been built in the town, and has room for 800 hearers, under the ministry of the Rev. B. Price. The Independent Chapel, in High street, was erected in 1818, at the cost of about £1400, and will seate 500. The Rev. Robt. Thomson is the minister, and the congregation was originally Presbyterian, and was formed in 1715. Here is also a Wesleyan Chapel, erected about 15 years ago; and there are in the town large National and British Schools. The poor have 35s. and the vicar 10s. yearly, left by John Toogood in 1679, out of six tenements at Washfield. As noticed with Poughill, this parish has from Mrs. Pincombe's Charity the yearly sums of £6 for a schoolmaster; £4 for a schoolmistress; and 40s. each for three poor men. The master of the National School teaches 12 free scholars in consideration of this charity, from which the children have occasional distributions of bibles, &c. A house, garden, malt-house, &c., were given by an unknown donor for the repairs of the church, and are worth £30 per annum, though let for only £3. 10s. on a lease which expires in 1854. Richard Harris, in 1795, left 50s. a yeare out of a tenement called Common, for distribution among the poor attending the Dissenting meeting-house here. [White's Devonshire Directory of 1850]